Jakarta doesn't ease into the evening. As office towers empty and the tropical heat softens, pavements transform into open-air kitchens. Chinese settlers, Sundanese farmers, Javanese cooks, Arab traders and communities from across Indonesia have all left something simmering in the pot. Over four hours and 15+ tastings, we'll cross Jakarta from historic Glodok and colonial Kota Tua to Menteng and Central Jakarta, travelling by foot, commuter train and tuk tuk.
 Before we get started, our tour reflects the local cuisine and the limitations of traditional eateries mean we unfortunately cannot cater for every dietary restriction. Here's an honest appraisal so nobody is disappointed: ✔ Suitable for lactose intolerance, no pork and no seafood diets. ⚠ Possible for gluten intolerance and mild nut allergies though some tastings will be unsuitable. ✖️ Unsuitable for pescatarian, vegetarian and vegan diets.

We begin beneath the gates of Kawasan Pancoran Glodok, gateway to Jakarta's historic Chinatown. Chinese communities have traded here for centuries, bringing noodles, soy sauces and cooking techniques that became inseparable from the city's food culture. Our first bites take us to West Java. Soft cassava is stuffed with deeply savoury oncom, while crisp tapioca fritters bring plenty of crunch. Then comes telor gulung, the nostalgic street snack where ribbons of egg are twirled around bamboo skewers. We'll settle into steaming bowls of bakso, tender beef meatballs swimming in clear, aromatic broth, sharpened with white pepper, garlic and as much fiery sambal as you dare.

Next, we'll cross into Kota Tua, the historic heart of what the Dutch once called Batavia. Colonial façades now provide the backdrop for some of Jakarta's most beloved street food. We'll watch kerak telor, Jakarta's signature Betawi snack, cooked over glowing charcoal, a smoky combination of glutinous rice and egg finished with its savoury toppings. Then comes crispy ayam penyet, crushed beneath fragrant green chilli sambal, followed by earthy petai with fried aubergine. Cooling glasses of sweet iced tea provide temporary relief before cilok Bandung, wonderfully chewy tapioca dumplings coated generously in rich peanut sauce. Old Batavia might provide the scenery, but tonight the street carts get top billing.

Then we'll travel like Jakartans themselves. We'll board the city's commuter railway and head south before hopping into a tuk tuk to weave through Menteng, trading the old streets of Glodok for one of Jakarta's grandest neighbourhoods. Waiting at the other end are skewers of beef and chicken sate, kissed by charcoal smoke and lavishly coated in silky peanut sauce. Alongside comes soto Madura, an aromatic beef soup from the island of Madura whose fragrant broth has been restoring hungry Indonesians for years. In a city notorious for its traffic, getting between dinner courses is part of the adventure.