Most visitors see Jaffa and Tel Aviv as two separate stops. They are one story, and this five-and-a-half-hour walk is how it makes sense. We start above the excavations at Kedumim Square, a Mediterranean port city thousands of years before Tel Aviv existed, then the Clock Tower, St. Peter's Church and Abrasha Park's hilltop view. We walk north to HaTachana, the 1892 railway station, then Neve Tzedek, built in 1887, five years earlier. Along Shabazi Street and Suzanne Dellal Centre to Rothschild Boulevard, home to roughly 4,000 International Style buildings, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2003. We finish down Nahalat Binyamin into Carmel Market, founded in the 1920s by the neighbouring Yemenite Quarter, for tastings of malawach, sabich, burekas, cheeses and halva. Come hungry, it adds up to a light meal. I am a licensed guide and work in English and Russian.