Akasaka Kenmochi

The Japanese culinary school of thought holds fast to the adage that a meal is only as good as its produce and ingredients, and chef Makoto Kenmochi is no exception. His long culinary career, especially his 12 years as head chef of the legendary establishment Nadaman, has granted him extensive connections with suppliers from all over the nation. As seasons change, so do the featured dishes at Akasaka Kenmochi. Spring highlights the firm, sweet flesh of sea bream, while summer brings ayu sweetfish and pike conger to the fore. But it is autumn that Chef Kenmochi looks forward to the most every year. He holds no greater reverence than that for the humble matsutake mushroom, to the point where his autumn menu revolves almost entirely around it. Every mushroom he uses is harvested precisely when its water content is between 60 to 70 percent. After cutting them in half, Chef Kenmochi makes a single, careful incision with a medical scalpel on each one, letting the moisture within rise to the surface without letting too much evaporate. The mushrooms are then prepared in various ways—raw, grilled, stewed, even mixed into pilaf—and served up on beautiful ko-imari porcelain from his personal collection. The tableware is as essential to the dining experience as the freshness of the ingredients and the preparation technique, says Chef Kenmochi. The beauty of the ko-imari and the immaculate plating make for a treat for all five senses.