Higonoya Omotesando

Just as wagyu is the gold standard of beef, and kurobuta (black pig) is the gold standard for pork, Japanese jidori — literally “local chicken” — is the standard by which all other chicken is judged. The conditions under which jidori are raised differ from prefecture to prefecture, but the Uredori chicken of Ninohe City in Iwate Prefecture is widely regarded as one of the most delicious. Left to mature for up to nine times as long as a regular chicken, the free-range Uredori are known for their distinctive, satisfying texture and strong umami flavor. The chicken used in Higonoya’s yakitori skewers is sourced from Ninohe producers who supply exclusively to the restaurant. The meat never sees the inside of a freezer; it is refrigerated and sent direct from Ninohe to Tokyo, ensuring maximum freshness from butcher to kitchen. Higonoya offers several different parts of the Uredori chicken grilled over charcoal, from the richly-flavored liver to soft chicken tender, smeared generously with spicy yuzu kosho paste. Homey decor aside, Higonoya’s Omotesando outlet is supremely ventilated, offering a minimally smoky yakitori grilling experience. In comfort, it lets guests try all the different flavors that can come from a single broiler, washing them down with a glass (or several — the all-you-can-drink plan is a steal) of sake, shochu, or the old reliable: draft beer.