Kashiwaya Kitashinchi

A counter carved from a single Hinoki cypress encapsulates the vision behind Kashiwaya Kitashinchi. Opened in 2022 in Osaka’s lively entertainment neighborhood, the kaiseki restaurant is the latest innovative outpost of the famed Michelin-starred Kashiwaya Senriyama. Whereas its main branch offers private dining rooms, there are only eight counter seats here. This open setting, where gastronomes can watch dishes being prepared right before them, is rare in traditional kaiseki or kappo restaurants, where cooking typically happens behind closed kitchen doors. Guests can witness head chef Jun Takahashi, who served as the right-hand man to owner Hideaki Matsuo for years, artfully prepare each dish. Don’t be surprised if he slides open a small shoji screen behind the counter to reveal his apprentice grilling fugu. One thing remains the same: Kashiwaya experiments with flavors, aromas, and textures of local ingredients. ​​The menu varies with the season but always uses the same konbu wholesaler in Osaka for their dashi base. A French-inspired savory souffle, which is a steamed blend of mushroom, dashi and strained lily bulb, is a recipe passed down from the main branch. Courses typically end with yokan (traditional Japanese sweets) or dango and green tea.