Kohaku

The best kaiseki (traditional Japanese banquet-style cuisine) chefs have a healthy respect for tradition. However, the most exciting chefs always feel the urge to push the boundaries of standard practice. The head chef at the three-Michelin-starred Kohaku — Koizumi Koji — embodies a perfect balance of both. His sublime skills and carefully measured creativity made him the youngest chef in Japan to hold three Michelin stars, and has done so for almost 10 years running as of the time of writing. Diners at his restaurant soon learn why, when they find traditional Japanese dishes elevated by the creative addition of foreign ingredients such as butter, chili paste, star anise, foie gras, and truffles. Despite his love of ingredients not usually found in Japanese cooking, Chef Koizumi also deeply cares about his connection to the people who supply him with premium Japanese produce. He has been known to visit mushroom farmers and deep-sea fishermen in person to deepen his knowledge of their produce, and strengthen his links with the providers. The ambiance in his store is unsurpassable, accentuated by wall hangings and flower displays which give the main room the feel of an exclusive gallery space — fitting perhaps, as the dishes on offer can well be described as masterpieces. Kaiseki is never complete without sake, and guests will definitely find Chef Koizumi's formidable selection surpassing their expectations. His sake pairings are just as carefully chosen as his ingredients, such as his recommendations of stronger, sharper varieties recommended in winter, to cut through the oilier, fattier ingredients used. Located within easy access of Iidabashi Station and Ushigome-kagurazaka Station both, Kohaku remains a hotly vied-for spot among Tokyo's legion of gourmets. A seat at the counter is difficult to secure, but so worth it. Michelin Guide: 2016 - 3 Michelin Stars