Robata Omoto Kagurazaka

Kagurazaka robatayaki restaurant Omoto has a lofty claim to fame: it is from the same city in which the robatayaki cooking style is said to have been first invented — Kushiro, in southeastern Hokkaido. While the original restaurant in Kushiro has since closed, the Omoto legacy lives on in Kagurazaka. Chef Takami Mamoru’s commitment remains firm: though it may be in the heart of one of Tokyo’s most cosmopolitan districts, visitors can still enjoy fresh, natural Hokkaido ingredients, cooked in a distinctly rustic Hokkaido style. On the meat front, Omoto used to serve only pork — so it should serve as no surprise that it has honed the art of preparing it to perfection. Marinated in soy sauce with ginger mixed in, the pork is then grilled to perfection on an ami wire mesh. According to the chef, it’s so soft that it’s often mistaken for beef by first-time visitors. That’s not to discount the quality of the actual beef served in the restaurant, which is Shiretoko beef tri-tip (tomosankaku) from eastern Hokkaido, widely valued for its balance of fat and meat. And of course, no robatayaki meal is complete without seafood. Oysters from Kombumori Port also bubble and hiss atop the grill, filling the air with a mouth-watering aroma. Chef Takami in particular recommends the trio of Kushiro-caught sailfin poacher (tokubire), broadbanded thornyhead (menme) and of course, Okhotsk atka mackerel (hokke), which also features in the restaurant’s dashi stock. Ever particular about his grilling technique, Chef Takami cooks the fish just right, giving the meat a sweet, smoky flavor, while crisping the skin to perfection. Naturally, each menu offering is best complemented by a glass of Hokkaido-produced shochu or sake, of which Chef Takami’s collection is proudly displayed on the back wall. Omoto also distinguishes itself by being brightly lit and remarkably less smoky than the average robata establishment, meaning that guests are less likely to have the smell of charcoal clinging to their clothes afterwards. While a large appeal of robata is being able to watch the chefs at work, guests looking for a more secluded — and even less smoky — environment have the option to take a second-floor private room with sunken kotatsu (horigotatsu) seating.