Rogama steak arcanum

The kiln-roasted steak, or rogama steak, is probably one of Japan’s best-kept culinary secrets. Rogama roasting ensures an even cook on all sides, forming a crispy crust on the outside, and sealing in the meat’s natural umami and juices. The result is a flavor, texture and juiciness that is quite unlike any other. So why is rogama so much less readily available than yakiniku or teppanyaki? The difficulty comes in the prohibitive cost of building the kiln, and getting the cooking technique just right. Rogama grilling is an art that only a select few have experience in. Which is why it is particularly extraordinary that Rogama steak arcanum’s head chef Shinya Suzuki is able to offer kiln-roasted steaks at the price he does. Few — if any — are better versed in the art of beef preparation than he, having trained at roast beef restaurant Kamakurayama, and later taking up the role of grilling specialist in one of the best steak restaurants in Japan: the vaunted Shinbashi Tamuracho Aragawa. Several attempts to devise a cost-effective method of rogama roasting eventually resulted in the birth of Rogama steak arcanum in August 2023. Only Tamura beef is permitted to be cooked in the restaurant’s ovens. Tamura beef is a special sub-breed of Tajima beef, which is in turn the root of all branded Japanese wagyu. When subjected to the rogama cooking method, Tamura beef’s low melting point and intense marbling results in it literally melting in the mouth when eaten. This in turn releases the fragrance sealed into the meat by the cooking process, letting it spread through the mouth. Chef Suzuki’s particularities aren’t limited just to the meat; they extend to the cooking process. He even ensures that the thickness and length of the charcoal in his ovens are uniform on all sides, so as to ensure an even application of heat on each side of the steak.