Sushi Dokoro Asanokawa

An idyllic house by the banks of the Asano River in Kanazawa has become home to Sushi Dokoro Asanokawa, a fine sushi establishment by Ishikawa-born Otobe Tomokaze, who has been helming the counter since 2016. It’s located in Koazuemachi, a historic part of Kanazawa dotted with Edo-period tea houses. Raised in a family of restaurant owners, Otobe honed his Japanese cuisine skill in Kyoto ryokans before returning to Kanazawa. After years of working under the venerable chef Morita Kazuo — the owner of the legendary Komatsu Yasuke — Otobe, once a protege, carved his own niche while inheriting his mentor’s recipes and techniques. Otobe’s artistry is also shaped by the cultural influences of Japan’s two ancient capitals, Kanazawa and Kyoto. His omakase journey is shaped by the exquisite ingredients from the Hokuriku region, like blackthroat seaperch from Ishikawa Prefecture, abalone from Awaji and eel from Aichi Prefecture. A meal at Sushi Dokoro Asanokawa starts with a display of the day’s ingredients unveiled in a hinoki cypress box. Soon, you’ll find yourself immersed in a cornucopia of flavors and textures. Otobe pays tribute to Komatsu by serving red tuna, gently marinated just as he was taught. His signature Unakyu Maki, a luxurious roll of fragrant grilled eel with rice and cucumber, showcases his originality. Nigiri, such as Kanazawa-style red squid, is cut into intricate lattice-like patterns using the knife techniques passed down by his mentor. Plump shrimp from Ishikawa are topped with shrimp roe, and blue-backed fish are marinated and scored with precision. As with any great omakase, surprises and dynamic shifts come along the way, but the meal at Sushi Dokoro Asanokawa ultimately finds harmony. Guided by the blessing of his mentor — Morita, who helped name his store — and the bounty of Hokuriku, his seasonal sushi courses narrate a brilliant culinary story.