Sushi Himitsu

“Himitsu” means “secret” in Japanese, and is a witty abbreviation of its head chef and owner’s name, Hirayama Yasumitsu. But it also refers to the restaurant’s location in Akasaka: while a stone’s throw from Akasaka Station, its location in a back alley makes it seem entirely removed from the famously lively district, one of Tokyo’s most active shopping and dining spots. Chef Hirayama chose the location for its presence in Minato Ward: the same ward as Azabu-juban, the district where he trained and built up the majority of his current following. “I wanted to let the guests who have supported me for so long in Azabu-juban enjoy the same ‘hideaway’ experience at a nearby location,” he explains. While Sushi Himitsu is relatively new to the extremely competitive Akasaka sushi scene, its Chef Hirayama is anything but. Having loved cooking and eating Japanese food from a young age, he studied in a culinary school before working at both sushi and kaiseki restaurants, which solidified his decision to specialize in sushi. After 14 years of training, including his stint as head chef at the aforementioned Azabu-juban sushi restaurant, he started Sushi Himitsu. Aside from its location and quiet atmosphere, the distinctive appeal of Sushi Himitsu lies in its capability to offer not just sushi, but the hospitality and variety associated with both kappo and kaiseki styles of cuisine. Now at the helm of his own restaurant, Chef Hirayama is free to offer char-grilled dishes alongside a varied selection of seasonal nigiri. His large-grained sushi rice is carefully selected from Yamagata Prefecture, and treated with a blend of red vinegar and rice vinegar that never threatens to overpower the natural taste of the fish. Occasionally, he features exclusive, rare fish from his suppliers, like the fascinating Asian sheepshead wrasse (kobudai). Oyster nigiri is a hot favorite from late winter to early spring, while firefly squid with homemade karasumi (dried mullet roe) is the seasonal favorite all throughout spring. Chef Hirayama’s shabu-shabu hotpot is also highly recommended during winter months. Each dish is impeccably presented, spotlit against a plain wood counter and accentuated by the black walls and ceiling.