Yakiniku Minakami

There’s a notion that yakiniku, or Japanese-style barbecue, belongs to the realm of traditional Japanese cuisine, when in fact it is actually a relatively recent addition that first blossomed after World War II. Just a brisk walk from Susukino Station, a serene yakiniku joint reimagines what it might have been like if yakiniku had been born centuries earlier — alongside primordial sushi — and served through the lens of kappo cuisine. Like kappo, Yakiniku Minakami features only counter seating, with wooden veneers that mask the space in a retro atmosphere rather than an urban cloak. Solo dining is not only accepted but encouraged here. The menu follows an omakase-style, allowing the chef to decide which cuts of wagyu will be featured for each meal. The meat served here primarily consists of Hokkaido Nobiratori wagyu beef. Raised in the harsh soils of Hokkaido, this wagyu is characterized by its concentrated umami and rich flavor. The yakisuki – Japanese for “grilled sukiyaki” — takes center stage, featuring sliced aitchbone that is dipped in sauce and grilled, then served with a rich egg yolk for dipping. Yakiniku Minakami still takes cues from the standard yakiniku brief, though. Appetizers and side dishes are Korean-inspired, such as kimchi. Meanwhile, the chef, drawing from his Italian culinary background, surprises diners with desserts like tiramisu. These surprises are subtle and subdued, much like the spirit of kappo that he intends to weave into the dining experience.