Yanagi Teppan Unborn Gastronomy

At precisely 6:30 pm, the show begins. From the see-through wine cellar to the sharp-lined bar shrouded in sultry and dim lighting, Domoto Seiji’s Sapporo restaurant is all about making teppanyaki a theatrical experience, and the course, as it should be, is designed to wow. Domoto draws the menu from his experience in yakiniku and Italian cuisine and orchestrates the service with the same finesse that marked his head chef days. Items are what one would expect from a celebrity-status chef: Domoto settles no less than Hokkaido Japanese beef, such as the esteemed Kubo Kuro, which is fed a rare brand of kelp; Shiretoko, known for its longer fattening period; and Hassho, a purebred Tajima breed raised in Hokkaido’s icy climate. And the spectacle doesn’t end with the beef — Domoto also dishes out rare gems like prized Goyon potatoes, aged for 540 days in Kutchan’s frost to achieve a rich, earthy depth. Technique-wise, Domoto’s dexterity marries the old with the new — wagyu is aged and fermented and gets sous-vided and smoked. All seats are counter-seat, and the only option for dinner is the omakase course. Yanagi Teppan Unborn Gastronomy is far from a modest restaurant — chefs wear black jackets and look like they could kill; the restaurant’s name has already made its way into gourmet magazines; and Domoto himself claims he’s ushering a new era of teppanyaki — and it shouldn’t be. It’s here to take the lead. If you're looking to impress a date by bringing them here, don't be surprised if you leave just as dazzled.