Azabujuban Hanabusa

Ask any Japanese person where the best unagi (freshwater eel) comes from, and they will probably tell you Aichi Prefecture. Ask anyone from Aichi where the best unagi comes from, and they will probably tell you Nishio City. Within Nishio, Isshiki Town has one of the longest histories of eel cultivation, having raised the fish for over a century in the pristine, clear waters of the Yahagi River that flows down from the mountains of Gifu. The eels are raised as naturally as possible in very small quantities, giving them much more space to roam and grow than most other unagi. Everything is closely monitored, right down to the water temperature at specific stages of the eel’s life cycle. It is from Isshiki’s pure waters that Hanabusa exclusively sources its eels, which is why Hanabusa’s unagi notably lacks a “fishy” odor that is sometimes present in other eels. Unusual for a Tokyo restaurant, Hanabusa subscribes to the Kansai method of grilling, “jiyaki”, which eschews the steaming process typically used in the Kanto school of unagi preparation in favor of directly grilling the eel over a charcoal flame. This gives it a crispier surface texture and smokier flavor — which is enhanced by the use of Hanabusa’s secret sauce. The restaurant takes just as much pride in its sauce as it does its carefully-cultivated eels. A secret mixture of Mikawa-made mirin, tamari soy sauce and a long aging process gives the sauce a deep, rich umami flavor that is uniquely Hanabusa’s.