Il Centrino

Owner Kitaguchi Tomohisa, who worked in front of the house in Peimento and Veneto, used to train in Italy, so he already had a pretty good idea of what works when he opened Il Centrino. The restaurant is tucked into a corner lot in a renovated building near Osaka’s Karahori shopping arcade, nestled among other townhouses, and heeds the formula of a high-end local diner. Leinen-covered tables and simple arrangements are the main features of the space, although there’s an open atrium at the entrance. Kitaguchi is a passionate food communicator — arguably one of the best in town. He takes inspiration from the flavors and techniques of northern Italy; his tasting menu is never outrageously funky, but it’s packed with a few creative iterations of his own that lodge the entire meal to the fringe of adventurous territory. It’s clear from the vibrant red gazpacho made with fresh tomato and mussels imported from Mont Saint-Michel, which packs a beautiful umami punch. Eggplants are stacked with rabbit meat from Veneto to form the classic involtini. Meanwhile, a plate of agnolotti stuffed with eel is topped with truffles. In the summer, Kitaguchi brings in pan-fried young sweetfish wrapped in pancetta, lentils and radicchio. Thankfully, Il Centrino’s food is wine-friendly, too. An appetizer of surf clam is paired with Meunier Champagne. Thick domestic beef, he reasons, should stick to the classic red burgundy of Barolo. Il Centrino is charming and well-priced, with a high-spirited approach to food and wine. It’s why it’s both a successful neighborhood local and a Michelin-acclaimed restaurant for four years in a row. Michelin Guide accolades: 2021 - 2024 - 1 Michelin Star