Ricuperare Takeuchi

Vintage wine bottles and a pile of split firewood at the entrance set the scene of this tucked-away trattoria and signal that you are in the right spot for some fire-fueled Italian grub in Osaka. Wood, charcoal, and straw are the backbones of the cooking process, and the chef has nailed the art of grilling down to a science. Diners, who are typically visitors from the nearby National Museum of Art looking for a post-exhibition lunch, sit at the counter and watch the chef light the firewood to grill Ezo deer loin or bake pistachio bread for the bruschetta. Meats like pork and beef find their perfect texture over the sustained heat of a charcoal fire, while tuna, seasoned with radish and yuzu pepper, is delicately cooked over smoldering straws. On some days, they prepare pasta with a seasonal meat ragout, while on others, they turn resourceful with wagyu bolognese made with various cuts of the animal. One thing is clear: the meal starts fire, and ends with fire — even the puddino dessert carries a subtle hint of smokiness.