Kashiwai

Temari-zushi is one of Kyoto’s most iconic foods. Taking their name from the small Japanese fabric balls, the sushi are likewise fashioned to be small such that geisha can consume them in a single bite, minimizing their chances of ruining their makeup. Nobody does this traditional food quite like the mother-daughter duo who run Kashiwai, a small, quaint shop just a block northeast of Kitaoji Station, and just a short distance from the bank of the Kamo River. Here, temari-zushi are instead called “tsumami-zushi”, or “snack sushi”. Neatly lined up in black boxes, the sushi are beautifully decorated, and have recently spread like wildfire across on social media, where their popularity has skyrocketed. Adding to their charm is the hand-drawn annotated menu that accompanies them, helpfully written in English for overseas visitors to know precisely what they’re enjoying as well. And they taste just as good as they look. The Michelin inspectors don’t disagree — the restaurant picked up a Michelin Bib Gourmand award in 2023. Seasonal ingredients from around Kyoto make their way into the sushi, like simmered bamboo shoot or conger eel. The 15-piece set may seem like a lot, but it’s the best way to experience these tsumami-zushi. Michelin Guide: 2023 - Bib Gourmand