Meishan

The facade is a little worn, its white paint full of character. The tables, cozy, with rich wooden seats, are illuminated by single spot-lights that reflect the faint gold chintz of the wallpaper and give the tabletops a retro formica glare. By all measures, it looks like a lovingly aged neighborhood Chinese joint with a gnarl-knuckled grandpa behind the counter. You’d be shocked then, to find a young female chef, putting her heart into every plate of pickled green bean stir-fry, or bowl of mapo tofu. Chef Yamamura’s appreciation for simple, unpretentious cooking came from an izakaya which once comforted her with its heartfelt fare. Now, at her own restaurant in Kagurazaka, she — and her younger sister, who handles the service — manages to preserve that atmosphere, with down-to-earth, friendly service. The meal is the focus, and the atmosphere provides. Meishan preserves the best of two worlds: easy neighborhood friendliness and top-notch authentic Sichuan fare, all at supremely affordable prices that earned it a Michelin Bib Gourmand award in 2023. Michelin Guide: 2023 - Bib Gourmand