Mondo

For a slice of a Parisian bistro one might stumble upon in a back alley in Sapporo, look no further than Mondo, where a chef greets guests with a smile and dons an apron instead of a chef’s coat. There's no modern riff of anything here; from the black-and-white checkered tiles to the sunny Dorothy-yellow wall adorned with china plates, the brief seems to be the dining room of your grand-maman, where fresh flowers are always on the table and smell of something brewing is constant. The lunch course offers a lighter affair, which might include a soup loaded with vegetables and draped with cheese, Hokkaido hamburg steak, and boulangerie-style bread. But it’s dinnertime where Mondo truly shines. The chef ties his course with classic French recipes, albeit with a bit of Hokkaido flair. Past standouts include the Hokkaido chicken ballotine that rested on top of a bed of lentils, or poached monkfish served with sauerkraut and buttery buerre blanc sauce. Meanwhile, the Shiretoko beef, cooked low and slow, maintains a perfect pink hue and offers a depth of flavor that lingers. Dessert here is also an affair, with a crowd-approved cheese plate that would tempt anyone to order another round of wine or orange liqueur blancmange — a silky, pudding-like dessert. And if your meal doesn’t naturally include something sweet, don't leave without trying their creme caramel.