Niku Kappo Akasaka Yuuga

Restaurant Details

The white noren swaying in an Akasaka back alley reveals Niku Kappo Akasaka Yuuga, an establishment where the heart and grit of kappo cuisine thrive. Here, owner and chef Narita Ryo dreamily merges the robust flavor of wagyu with the delicate, seasonal vegetables, creating a balance that speaks to both tradition and his love for local items.

Unlike wagyu restaurants that claim the title of a steakhouse, Narita bills Yuuga as a “niku kappo,” drawing parallels to kaiseki, Japan’s pinnacle of fine dining. Yet, as a kappo eatery, it emphasizes a closer connection between chef and guest. A wide, blond counter dominates the warm space, with the chef standing in the open kitchen to prepare each dish in full view. The cooking becomes a dialogue between Narita and the seasonal produce; the service, a conversation between him and his guests.

The menu is broken down into 24 solar terms of the lunar calendar, featuring the best seasonal items. Narita calls them "shunsai" — a term that expresses seasonal ingredients, though it lacks a direct translation. As is in kappo, the meal consists of multiple small courses, each perfectly timed. Starters like kombu-cured scallops and a platter of simmered monkfish liver paired with deep-fried grouper (hata)set the tone for the meal.

The true centerpiece, however, is the Japanese Black beef. Wagyu is also elegantly woven into various dishes, such as a pretty wagyu and yuba spring roll or a decadent tartare enhanced by egg yolk and soy sauce. Narita selects only the finest marbled female cows, regardless of brand, and insists on purchasing the whole animal — an added challenge given their rarity.

From the temperature of his dish to the light-hearted service that guides guests in the evening, Niku Kappo Akasaka Yuuga leaves no details unturned.