Omino

Wedged in an alley off Sakurada Street, a few things define Omino Kamiyacho: the constant aroma of Binchotan charcoal, the prominence of Date chicken and the passion for innovation. At the U-shaped counter, diners have a front-row seat as owner-chef Omino Masayoshi and his apprentices spring into action. Sporting hachimaki headbands, their hands deftly brush chicken skewers with sauce and flip them over the flames. Creativity and seasonality fuel his cuisine. Date chicken from Fukushima is used for its perfect balance of meat and fat. Chicken wings are grilled with sweet sauce and stuffed with rice and ginger. During autumn, Omino unveils chicken rice sushi, liver paste served on a spoon and mukago (Japanese yam tubercles) meatballs; chestnuts replace the usual rice and ginger stuffing. Cooked over Binchotan charcoal from Wakayama, the skewers of chicken thighs, meatballs, heart and chochin (chicken ovary and fallopian tube) are always plump and tender. Rice and side dishes dispersed throughout the meal still feature the bird: ground meat with egg yolk, soup made with chicken stock, and nikumiso (ground meat with miso paste). The Japanese sake is sourced from the Tohoku Region, close to the production area of the Date chicken.