REI

REI takes its name from the Japanese word “reimeiki”, meaning “beginning”. It’s fitting given that it is owner-chef Takashima Yasuhiro’s first independent venture, after having trained extensively at renowned Chinese restaurants Nanen in the Keio Plaza Hotel and Setagaya Ward’s famed Fuan Long Yuen, and later at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s China Room. The restaurant is a culmination of all this experience and a burning desire to start a Chinese eatery in his neighborhood of Yoyogi-Uehara, where he has lived for over 15 years. Yoyogi-Uehara is known for being an area with a dense concentration of high-quality restaurants, and so Chef Takashima modestly attributes REI’s success primarily to timing: opening during a period when there were fewer eateries opening in Tokyo. But a single bite instantly confirms that he is not giving himself enough credit. Timing alone cannot earn a restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand within two years, after all. While a staple of most Sichuan restaurants in Tokyo, the REI-style yodare-dori chicken takes a bold step out of the ordinary, making use of Thai seasoning for a more complex and pleasantly surprising flavor profile. Chef Takashima makes similar adjustments to familiar favorites like pan-fried dumplings and shrimp with mayonnaise to great effect. Interestingly, a large proportion of REI’s visitors are solo diners, drawn by the restaurant’s half-portion offerings — meaning that there’s an opportunity to order a greater variety of dishes. Nonetheless, with REI’s extensive menu, diners never fail to be spoilt for choice. Michelin Guide: 2022 - Bib Gourmand