Kyoto Saeki

Many sushi restaurants can be called metaphorical temples of sushi, but Kyoto Saeki — formerly Nanzenji Saeki — is perhaps the only one which can make the claim completely literally. It was, after all, formerly on the grounds of Nanzenji Temple in Kyoto, where it made its home for several years after moving from Kitashinchi in Osaka, where its established a reputation as a restaurant notoriously difficult to book a seat at. Unfortunately, after just a few years, the owner traded in its idyllic spot on the temple grounds, for a more central location between Marutamachi Station and Nijo Castle. Even after moving out of Nanzenji Temple, Saeki must nonetheless surely be a contender for the most beautiful restaurant in Japan. The garden, visible through floor-to-ceiling windows, is tended to carefully, according to traditional philosophies around harmony with nature and reverence towards it. Naturally, the menu follows suit. Each piece of fish is prepared with the utmost care to bring out the natural flavors inherent in it. When you’re seated, you’ll be presented with a lacquerware plate from the chef’s personal collection — made specially for him by a famous craftsman. Each has a unique design representing the nature and culture of Japan. Dinner starts at either 5:30 or 7:30, and consists of traditional Edomae sushi, adjusted for modern palates. Take for example the sea urchin, served on top of a small bowl of rice and crispy seaweed, or the anago eel rice bowl topped with a sauce made from anago dashi. There’s an incredible sense of space and freedom in the dining room, with a high roof, comfortable low tables, and two separate nine seat counters. You’ll have plenty of room to breathe and relax, as you gaze out at the rustling leaves, whichever seat you choose.