Sawada (Osaka)

Sandwiched between two local shops on the winding streets of Fukushima, Osaka, Sawada emits a warm glow at its entrance. Any indication of existence is marked only by subtle calligraphy, but make no mistake: this unassuming facade conceals a one-star Michelin restaurant renowned for its intimate kaiseki (Japanese multicourse meal). Once a private home, the interior has been meticulously transformed into a teahouse-inspired setting, complete with walls finished in earthen plaster that embraces the sukiya-zukuri architecture. Get seated along the cypress counter that doubles as a stage where Toshimitsu Sawada masterfully prepares his elaborate tasting menus. Seasonality is at the heart of the course: filefish liver, typically served as sashimi, grilled in autumn; clam somen and Hakodate sea urchin in summer; and sesame tofu accompanied by blanched cherry blossom leaves in spring. The hostess is known for her knowledge of sake, so don’t forget to ask for her tasteful recommendation.