Shimoyamite Naeizuru

In Japanese culture, the year is divided into 72 seasonal phases, each referencing the minute changes in climate and ecology which happen week after week. The name of this restaurant, situated near the leafy splendor of Sapporo Park, corresponds to the very beginning of spring, when frost thaws and rice seedlings begin to sprout. Though the menu is ostensibly French, the owner-chef has incorporated elements from a number of different cuisines throughout the years, making his set course menu unlike any other. After studying at a Michelin-starred restaurant in France for three years, he returned to Japan to open his own restaurant. His old restaurant, Igarashi, was celebrated, but had a short lifespan of just five years. In the interim between its closing and the opening of this new project, the owner developed a fascination with French wines, traveling to France to source the best organic varieties for his restaurant. As for the food, the kohada fish terrine is one of the most celebrated dishes: a Hokkaido fish presented in a distinctly French style. The interior of the restaurant has a classic Japanese interior, perfectly arranged, which gives the impression of stepping onto an elegant movie set. Only six counters seats are available, so make sure to book in advance if you want to enjoy the best French-fusion food on Japan’s northern island.