Tsunokamizaka Koshiba

Many are familiar with Japan’s four seasons. But few are aware that the country’s four seasons contain another 24 smaller seasons, referred to as sekki — and even fewer know that the sekki can be subdivided even further into 72 microseasons, otherwise known as ko. Whether it’s for the return of wild geese in spring, or autumn’s first descent of fog, Tsunokamizaka Koshiba’s head chef and owner Koshiba Takeshi carefully imbues each of his menus with the spirit of the current ko. Having trained in some of the finest restaurants in Kyoto, Hiroshima and Ginza, before becoming head chef of a Kagurazaka restaurant, he then decided it was time to start his own independent endeavor. This resulted in the birth of Tsunokamizaka Koshiba in September 2016 to immense critical acclaim, swiftly attracting even the attention of the Michelin Guide Tokyo. An essential part of kappo cuisine is the performative aspect of its preparation, with dishes being made at the counter right before guests' eyes. Much like a painter or writer would, Chef Koshiba uses culinary technique to preserve an exact moment in time only as a chef of his caliber could, through the use of hyper-seasonal ingredients like vegetables and seafood, and careful preparation techniques centered around bincho-tan charcoal grilling. A selection of seasonal delicacies sourced from both mountain and sea, the “hassun” is the centerpiece of Chef Koshiba’s menus. In a single plate, it serves as a microcosmic snapshot of not just the season, but also the seafaring and mountain-foraging legacy of the Japanese people. To dine at Tsunokamizaka Koshiba’s Yoshino cedar counter is to partake in an experience that leaves one with not just a full stomach, but also a heightened appreciation for the essence of Japanese cuisine. As guests relax in the restaurant's minimalist, serene interior, surrounded by light-grained wood paneling, Chef Koshiba also invites them to partake of an extensive sake selection, carefully curated to match the menu.