Tsunokamizaka Koshiba

Many are familiar with Japan’s four seasons. But few are aware that the country’s four seasons contain another 24 smaller seasons, referred to as sekki—and even fewer know that the sekki can be subdivided even further into 72 microseasons, otherwise known as ko. Whether it’s for the return of wild geese in spring, or autumn’s first descent of fog, Tsunokamizaka Koshiba’s head chef and owner Takeshi Koshiba carefully imbues each of his menus with the spirit of the current ko. Much like a painter or writer would, Chef Koshiba uses cuisine to preserve an exact moment in time only as a chef of his caliber could, through the use of hyper-seasonal ingredients and careful preparation techniques centered around bincho-tan charcoal grilling. A selection of seasonal delicacies sourced from both mountain and sea, the “hassun” is the centerpiece of Chef Koshiba’s menus. In a single plate, it serves as a microcosmic snapshot of not just the season, but also the seafaring and mountain-foraging legacy of the Japanese people. To dine at Tsunokamizaka Koshiba’s hinoki cypress counter is to partake in an experience that leaves one with not just a full stomach, but also a heightened appreciation for the essence of Japanese cuisine.