Rakuichi

Tatsuru Rai, son of a diplomat with samurai and artist ancestors, grew up in Tokyo but fell in love with summers in Niseko when he traveled as a child. He quit university two months after settling in the snowy region and cut his teeth on soba making. Rakuichi, situated at the base of Annupuri ski resort, is managed by Rai, his wife Midori and their daughter. What began as a bold risk has turned into a sought-after destination, with visitors eagerly vying for reservations. Welcoming 12 diners at a time in a 2-hour kaiseki course, Tatsuru prepares his soba from dough to cutting. While many ease the process by mixing the preparation with another flour, Tatsuru only relies on whole buckwheat. Once the dough is kneaded, he uses a wooden dowel to thin the ply; with each pass of the dowel, he pats the dough with his right hand. The noodles are presented in a simple bamboo steamer. Beyond soba, the kaiseki menu, hand-written by Midori, varies according to the season but always highlights Hokkaido’s finest seafood such as sea urchins and seasonal vegetables. His traditional Japanese meal assorts several small simmered and grilled dishes that balance texture, colors and taste. The family team is always elegantly cloaked in kimono and yukata. Another constant? A smile on their face and a warm, close-knit service. Reservations a few months ahead are recommended.