Shuan Godai

Shuan Godai sits on the fringe of Susukino, a soapland district, yet its facade and interior are a far cry from the glittering atmosphere of its surroundings. Duck beneath the navy-blue noren, and you're welcomed by the warm glow of roasting coals and a traditional irori hearth. The entire space feels like it stopped in its tracks decades ago. A raised platform offers a few tables with tatami seating, while at the counter, where at least one chef is always fanning the grill, a suspended iron kettle gently warms Kutchan sake. Peculiarly, a cluster of still-pink hokke (Okhotsk Atka mackerel) hangs from the ceiling, slowly smoked by the flames rising from the grill below. For most restaurants, these items might be more performative than functional, but each part of Shuan Godai’s rustic-looking fitout serves a purpose. Here, cooking is pure primitive. Relying on traditional charcoal grilling, the menu applies nose-to-tail wizarding, showing the world the limitless possibilities with creatures of the sea. Sliced herring is a staple, but you'll also find smoked oysters kissed by the same charcoal heat and sardines served with a mound of freshly grated daikon. If the season is right, both male and female shishamo are grilled over charcoal until fragrant. While most diners compliment their fish lineup, you can still peruse the menu and look at their grilled sides and veggies selection. There are salt-and-pepper-seasoned matsutake mushrooms, skewered and char-grilled to perfection, a crisped, charred natto and, our favorite, the yakionigiri — a simple, hand-molded rice ball grilled over iron mesh that gives the outer skin a spectacularly crispy crust. Service is concise; the staff are so focused on the grill that they seldom engage in conversation. However, they remain attentive, instinctively knowing when guests are ready for a second order or when to encourage them to explore the selection of local sake and Japanese craft beers.