Wa Yamamura

Some restaurants cut their teeth on avant-garde cuisine, while others pride themselves on the no-frills cooking that wraps diners like a comfort. The quaint, tucked-away spot that happens to hold a Michelin star near Shin-Omiya Station masterfully nails both briefs in a way that got gourmets wondering why it’s been under the radar for so long. Run by a husband-and-wife duo, the kitchen thrives on the chef’s understated creativity, offering a delicate tasting menu that seems like artistic compositions meant for reflection. Regional fish and vegetables grown in the Naha terrains are given a starring role in the kitchen, while dishes are presented on vibrant small mamezara and stunning bowls. The exquisite hassun appetizer of butterbur, ayu sweetfish and drinking snacks is a highlight, but the sashimi platter — sweet shrimp, flounder, tuna, or sea bream — that sits on a bed of ice is particularly noteworthy. Grills are cooked over charcoal, and the soups carry the mellow, gentle flavors characteristic of kaiseki cuisine. The rice dish from dinner changes periodically, but the second helping is a mainstay: topped with dried sardines seasoned with soy and Japanese sansho peppers. This owner-chef leaves no detail overlooked. His meticulous eye for exquisite items extends beyond food; the second floor houses a tableware storeroom from the owner’s personal collection, some pieces even picked up from the kiln himself. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - 1 Michelin Star