As afternoon softens into evening, Cusco begins another transformation. The day-trippers drift back to their hotels, market traders start packing away their stalls, and the aroma of charcoal, roasted corn and slow-cooked meats begins to fill the narrow colonial streets. In a city where Inca foundations still support Spanish churches and centuries-old recipes remain part of everyday life, this is when many locals head out to eat.
 Before we get started, our tour reflects the local cuisine and the limitations of traditional eateries mean we unfortunately cannot cater for every dietary restriction. Here's an honest appraisal so nobody is disappointed:
 ⚠ Possible for lactose intolerance, no pork diets, mild peanut and tree nuts allergies, and no seafood diets, though some tastings will be unsuitable ✖️ Unsuitable for vegetarians, vegans, gluten intolerance and halal diets

There's no better way to begin than where Cusqueños shop every day. Mercado Wanchaq is still buzzing as neighbours stop by on their way home, picking up everything from giant Andean corn and native potatoes to tropical fruits arriving from Peru's Amazon rainforest. We'll tuck into a sizzling pan con lomito, one of Peru's great street sandwiches, before tasting an ever-changing selection of seasonal fruits that reveal just how remarkably diverse the country's landscapes really are. We'll also experience one of the Andes' oldest traditions by chewing coca leaves, a practice that long predates the Inca Empire and remains an important symbol of Andean culture today.

As evening settles over Cusco, we'll discover why Peruvian cuisine is celebrated around the world. We'll cool down with an unusual glass of aguaje juice, made from the remarkable Amazonian "tree of life", before sitting down to a colourful trio of modern Peruvian classics. Fresh trout ceviche proves Peru's signature dish is equally at home in the mountains, while delicate layers of causa limeña celebrate the country's astonishing diversity of native potatoes. Completing the feast is seafood arroz chaufa, a delicious reminder of the Chinese migration that helped shape modern Peruvian cooking.

The best evenings in Cusco are spent grazing. As we wander through the historic centre, we'll stop wherever something smells irresistible. Expect steaming pork tamales wrapped in leaves, beautifully flaky meat-filled salteñas, and juicy butifarra sandwiches disappearing almost as quickly as they're made. As dusk gives way to night, charcoal grills begin glowing across the city. That can only mean one thing: anticuchos. These smoky skewers of grilled beef heart have been feeding Peruvians since colonial times and remain one of the country's most beloved evening street foods.

Our final stop celebrates the ingredients that have sustained Andean communities for thousands of years. We'll warm up with comforting bowls of lawa, a traditional corn soup built around one of the crops that made the Inca Empire possible, before trying roasted cuy guinea pig, a delicacy enjoyed across the Andes long before European livestock arrived in South America. No evening in Peru ends without something sweet. Freshly fried picarones arrive crisp on the outside and wonderfully soft within, before a cup of warming emoliente, a traditional herbal drink loved for generations, provides the perfect nightcap.