Akasaka Sushi Ohtani

A dining experience at Sushi Ohtani is like stepping into another world — the “Ohtani World”, as its head chef calls it. From the outside, one could be forgiven for not recognizing Sushi Ohtani as a sushi restaurant in the first place. Absent is the traditional noren curtain across the entrance — in its place is an unmarked white sliding door, looking almost medical in nature. Pushing it open reveals an interior almost entirely in jet black, save the single strip of natural wood that is the counter. And standing behind it is Chef Ohtani himself, an imposing man who looks more like a martial artist than a sushi chef. Even the philosophy of shin-gi-tai — the hierarchy of mind, technique and body — that drives his cuisine is a mantra echoed in martial arts dojo all over the country. But these words take on a slightly different meaning within the walls of Sushi Ohtani. “Heart” refers to the spirit of service that Chef Ohtani embodies when serving his customers. First and foremost, every chef should be prepared to provide emotionally for their customers. In his words, “the essence of a restaurant is customer service”. “Technique”, of course, refers to the impeccable technique he uses to make his sushi, which he calls “Ohtani-mae”, in direct contrast to the traditional school of Edomae. His sushi craft builds on his experience as an instructor for seven years at a culinary institute, four years honing his craft overseas in Spain, and further time serving as a general manager of a Michelin-starred restaurant. This eclectic culinary background results in his sushi taking exciting new forms, like bluefin tuna with sea grapes, or sea urchin ensconced in squid. The shari rice used is exclusively of the Yukihotaka variety, a grain from Gunma Prefecture that was historically so rare it was referred to as the “phantom rice”. And finally, “body” refers to the feeling of a full belly, stimulating conversation and warmth of connection with the chef and other customers. This is the Sushi Ohtani experience summed up in a nutshell — and any sushi enthusiast worth their salt would find it in their best interest to try it for themselves.