Chinchikurin Miyajimaguchi Store

Head west of Japan to the sea-hugged island in Hiroshima Bay called Miyajima, where the polarizing vermillion red Great Torii stands tall and gets partially submerged during high tide. Close to this landmark, by the Miyajimaguchi Station, is Chinchikurin, a family-friendly restaurant on the waterfront that channels its energy on Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. While Osaka’s version of okonomiyaki mixes vegetables and proteins into a batter and cooks it on an iron griddle, Hiroshima’s iteration is lauded for its jam-packed layers. It starts with a plain, thin batter base, which gets stacked with cabbages, meats, noodles, egg and any combination desired. After all, the word “okonomi” translates loosely to “as you like,” so the traditional way to make okonomiyaki is to, well, be untraditional. And sure, Chinchikurin already has a string of stores — mostly in Hiroshima and Kanto region — but its Miyajima outlet might just be the best introduction to these savory cabbage pancakes. The okonomiyaki consists of 11 layers, featuring noodles from the legendary Isono Seimen. These noodles are pre-boiled to coax out their sweetness and then fried on a teppan plate in soybean oil, maintaining their firmness despite the constant heat. The result is incredible: savory, chewy noodles that are rightfully crispy on the outside. The rest of the layers offer a delightful medley of textures: the crunch of bean sprouts and cabbage, the slight chew of meat and the burst of savoriness from the special Otafuku sauce made from over 20 different spices. Large picture windows showcase the spectacular blue span of the Seto Inland Sea and the island of Miyajima, and the restaurant features a 13-meter-long iron plate counter — the longest in Japan. Order an alcoholic drink from its beverage section, which is basic but solid, and try the Shoburiyaki from the ala carte option.