falo

Founded in 2016, this Daikanyama restaurant’s name (meaning “bonfire” in Italian) is a homage to its head chef Kashimura Noritaka’s time spent in Italy, as well as his stint in the kitchen of Ristorante Acqua Pazza, arguably the most famous Italian restaurant in Minami-aoyama — an accolade not easily earned. But the name is also the central concept of the entire restaurant at large. Enjoying the warmth of a bonfire is a communal experience that draws people together, and so the restaurant is similarly designed to replicate this experience. The kitchen is open-style, with a charcoal grill at the center, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work from every angle. Subtle architectural cues like raising the seats to put diners on the same level as the chefs, as well as a low ceiling that calls to mind a prehistoric refuge, create a subconscious level of intimacy between the staff and the diners. And just as the atmosphere evokes a sort of primal, proto-human connection, falo’s cuisine also taps into something primitive, using traditional grilling methods like warayaki straw grilling, or first inserting meat into a length of bamboo before putting it over hot coals. The sight of Chef Kashimura and his staff holding massive, dripping chunks of meat over the blazing flames is certainly an unforgettable one. From skewered fish to slow-grilled porchetta, the grilled offerings at falo all evoke a glee that is all too human: the anticipation of food being prepared right before one’s eyes. And when the food does come, there’s no better way to enjoy it than with a glass of small-batch, natural wine from the restaurant’s extensive collection. Michelin Guide: 2023 - Bib Gourmand