Hakata Sushi Takayama

While many flock to Hakata for its famed tonkotsu ramen, the sushi scene in the city is equally remarkable, epitomized by Hakata Sushi Takayama. Its former flagship store, Washoku Takayama in Hiroo, Tokyo, once earned a spot in the Michelin Guide for four consecutive years. To locate the restaurant, look for the lantern stand on Hakata Ekimae Street, marking its entrance, and head down to the basement floor. You’ll notice a buzz in the air as you step in, coming from the presence of the chef stationed behind the corner-tucked counter and the anticipation of what’s to come. If Edomae sushi is their star attraction, then kaiseki is its shining counterpart. Here, the allure lies in the surprise of discovering which hyper-seasonal specialties will grace diners. The menu, changing with the seasons, begins with appetizers such as homemade edamame tofu, sake-steamed abalone, squid with wasabi dressing, and soused greens. Depending on the chosen course, the meal progresses to takiawase, where vegetables and proteins are simmered separately and then combined into one dish, and continues with Edomae-style nigiri, featuring fish like horse mackerel, bluefin tuna, and Spanish mackerel. A dessert or seasonal fruit — recently, it’s been the Japanese muskmelon — closes the meal.