Kaiseki Hachisen

Many students of Japanese culture find it quite surprising that the priests of Japanese Buddhism often have full-fledged second careers. It’s not uncommon to find that the local priest is also a lawyer or policeman. The owner of Kaiseki Hachisen, Masayoshi Amano, pursued the priesthood alongside his successful cooking career, studying at Manpukuji Temple in Kyoto. Naturally, this means he lacks the ego of a modern celebrity chef. Instead, his cooking follows a philosophy of clarity which reflects the Zen aesthetic of “suchness”: taking the time to pause and appreciate the unadorned beauty of things. Prepared according to this clear sighted approach are dishes such as chestnut dumplings, seasonal soups, and perfectly cut sushi and sashimi. The branch of Zen which Amano follows is that from which the traditional Japanese tea ceremony sprang, so you can expect the same level of care and attention paid to the service as he places each dish in front of you. Another happy result of his years of temple living is his mastery of the traditional vegan cuisine served to the monks who live and study there — known as shojin ryori. Every August, he serves up a set course menu that showcases this unique and historic fare, giving vegan diners a rare opportunity to enjoy traditional Japanese cuisine without worrying about special requests or misunderstandings.