Kozue

Innovation with respect for tradition. That is the ethos at this modern kaiseki restaurant, located in the 5-star Park Hyatt hotel, Shinjuku. From its lofty perch on the 40th floor, guests enjoy a stunning view of the Tokyo skyline, with views out to Mt. Fuji possible on a clear day. Melding together the esteemed and austere traditions of washoku with elements of international cuisine, the course menus here are a stellar example of the form. It falls to head chef Nobuhiro Yoshida to consistently update the offerings, in order to match the changing of the seasons. For almost three decades he has been at the helm, creating menus “that span a range of culinary pleasures from traditional country-style dishes to an innovative interpretation of kaiseki.” On the hearty and wholesome end of the spectrum, there are dishes like simmered pork belly with eggplant and bamboo shoots, or A5 wagyu sirloin hotpot. More traditional offerings are represented by the likes of the hassun — a platter of seasonal delicacies, often including sashimi, which serves as the centerpiece of classic kaiseki. Innovative fusions are evident in the desserts, such as the green tea financier, or the monaka (a traditional mochi wafer sandwich) with tomato sorbet and coconut milk sauce. Dishes such as these are available in classic omakase (chef’s choice) course menus, or as a la carte selections. To pair, Kozue offers a wide range of high-end Japanese sakes, western liquors, and wines.