Kudanshita Juhaku

An old-world air hovers within Kudanshita Juhaku at any time of the day, beating with the pulse of tradition. A stone’s throw from the Imperial Palace, Yasukuni Shrine and Budokan, the restaurant lodges itself into the annex of the legendary Sushi Masa building, which opened in 1861. The 150-year-old history of the sukiya-style structure is still very much alive; there are the recessed alcoves with ikebana, tatami mats grounding low-set tables and a warm orange glow that illuminates the coffered ceiling. Mostly serene and reverent, Kudanshita Juhaku specializes in chakaiseki, a form of kaiseki cuisine traditionally served before a tea ceremony. The content is mostly dictated by the flow of the season, but what’s unchanged is the structure. The evening, as with most kaiseki, starts with sakizuke, or appetizer, before continuing with small-portioned plates made of ingredients from land and sea. The focused use of dashi broth emphasizes a well-balanced umami flavor. Staying true to its Edo roots, Kudanshita Juhaku also serves Edomae sushi, where red vinegared rice is shaped into nigiri. Don’t expect salmon here — this is sushi made with fish fresh from Tokyo Bay, such as tuna, squid and gizzard shad, each so impeccably executed it shines on its own. Waitresses dressed in kimonos guide guests into a dining room designed to host those celebrating with family, on business and everything in between. The atmosphere embodies “wabi,” the beauty of simplicity and quietness, and “sabi,” the beauty of solitude and tranquility. All these factors make Kudanshita Juhaku a popular location to visit all year round, but perhaps most so in the spring. The sakura blossoming around the Imperial Palace draws many looking to enjoy flower-viewing sessions and, by extension, enter Juhaku's doors.