Koishikawa Nakasei

Omi, Matsusaka, Kobe; the three “great beefs” of Japan. These three wagyu types all trace their heritage back to the Tajima cattle, a breed of Japanese Black cattle from Hyogo Prefecture, and the very same type from where the vaunted “kuroge wagyu” gets its name. It might be hard to believe that beef can get better than these three legendary types. But Tokyo steakhouse and butcher Nakasei, in the Koishikawa district of Bunkyo Ward, does them one better. The restaurant, a former Michelin-starred steakhouse, serves what it calls “pureblood” Tajima beef, which unlike the beef mentioned above, has never been cross-bred with other cattle breeds. Each cow is chosen by a dedicated consultant who selects the best possible beef from this small number. As proof of the bloodline’s purity, the restaurant displays the pedigree of each head of cattle when they serve its meat to the customer. General manager Yamana Satoshi believes that Nakasei is the only restaurant to do this; few others would have as much faith in the quality of the beef that they purchase. But the restaurant doesn’t only stand on the quality of its meat — it must also be prepared in the ideal way. In keeping with this, each cut is aged for up to three months. During this time, the meat can lose as much as 20% of its weight. Still, Mr Yamana believes that this is a necessary sacrifice to ensure that diners can enjoy the wagyu’s optimal flavor, aroma and juiciness. Naturally, Nakasei also offers an extensive selection of wines to go with the meat — what steak would be complete without a glass? Unlike many of Japan’s highly seasonal specialty foods, there isn’t a particular “high” season in which wagyu is best enjoyed. However, Nakasei is on Bunkyo’s famed Harimazaka Slope, which, with its over 120 cherry trees, draws crowds from all over the world during peak sakura season. As such, reservations are difficult to secure during early spring — so guests looking for a taste of Nakasei’s purebred Tajima beef should try early.