Komatsu

The ethereal beauty of Nihonryori Komatsu rivals the natural splendor of nearby Maruyama Park. The terracotta-hued building, partially veiled by stark-white noren curtains, guides guests down a monastery-like staircase, creating a serene transition from the world outside into a sacred space. The decor is kept pared back, allowing Hokkaido’s ever-changing landscape — visible through the expansive picture windows — to take center stage. This concept was incepted by Chef Takashi Komatsu, who ventured out on his own after a decade at the esteemed Elm Garden. Like the changing landscapes outside, Komatsu's kaiseki mimics the fleeting beauty of each season. The menu is formulated around fresh ingredients, often available for only a few days at the peak of their seasonality. In autumn, hanasaki crab (spiny king crab) is crowned with chrysanthemum petals, while in spring, he grills Spanish mackerel on charcoal before finishing it with bottarga. Other items, set in a wonderful multicourse progression, paint Hokkaido's natural talents: abalone, hairy crab and sea bream from icy Funka Bay. Even the tableware is a tribute to Hokkaido, shaped by local potter Hiroyuki Shimizu of the Toden-Gama kiln in Shintotsukawa. From beginning to end, dining at Nihonryori Komatsu is a rightful passage to the glory of the snowy prefecture.