Yamagishi

Nijo Yamagishi resides in a renovated 140-year-old townhouse, accessed via a stone-paved alley in Nakagyo; the museum-class timbers have been resurrected by Takahiro Yamagishi to deliver forward-thinking kaiseki. The restaurant is the sister branch of Michelin-starred Tominokoji Yamagishi, which focuses on cha-kaiseki — an intricate multicourse meal typically served in traditional tea ceremonies. Only this time, it has stripped back the unapproachable disposition (most notably, Tominokoji Yamagishi is impossible to book) for something more relaxed. “I want to create a homey place where everyone can gather,” Yamagishi reasoned. The menu is centered around hot pot billed as “nabe kaiseki,” and is helmed by head chef Yokoi Yushi, who makes good use of Kyoto vegetables and seafood. Horse mackerel gets fried and paired with pickled shiba and flounder sashimi; mugwort tofu, sea urchin and traditional, small-portioned hassun are served in delicate mamezara. The centerpiece is, and always will be, the hotpot. Seasonal ingredients like crab are simmered in the restaurant's signature dashi stock. In spring, you'll find a beef and sansho pepper hotpot accompanied by onsen egg and sweet miso sauce, with the remaining broth transformed into a comforting zosui (rice soup). Service is provided by Yamagishi's warm and knowledgeable proprietress, who is well-versed in pairing sake with the meal. Private rooms can accommodate 4, 6 or 8 people.