Suigyo Murabayashi

In a dining landscape seemingly obsessed with going above and beyond, the owner-chef of this Kitashinchi restaurant strikes an unusual chord among Michelin critics for his pure admiration for fish at its most pared back. Each morning starts with a personal visit to the fishermen and fish ports with a keen eye on the prize: the first pick, the latest fish of the season, the freshest catch of the day. Fish are transformed into exquisite sashimi platters and simmered dishes. Soy sauce and water form the body of the seasoning, letting the tender, oily meat speak for itself. In an open kitchen, the aroma of steaming Koshihikari rice from Toyama Prefecture wafts through the air, gently cooked in traditional clay pots crafted by Shigaraki ware artisans. Water from Mt. Koya helps enhance the flavors. The "Tamagokake Gohan" — gently cooked clay pot rice topped with raw eggs from naturally raised chickens in Wakayama Prefecture — is a popular mainstay. The handsome space is dimly lit and as comfortable as it is grand, with open shelves lined with earthenware crockery and an imposing wood counter. Only handmade tableware and ceramics, crafted by skilled artists, are deemed worthy to complement the chef’s exquisite dishes — and rightly so. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - Bib Gourmand