Tsukiji Kagura Sushi

When news broke that the fish market was relocating from Tsukiji to Toyosu, many stores in the outer market closed their shutters, packed up and moved. Not Tsukiji Kagura Sushi. Instead, this long-established Edomae sushi house carried on as usual, steadily growing its loyal following and showing no signs of slowing down, just as it has since the days when Tokyo was still called Edo. Excellence and tradition is in its philosophy. The store’s executive chef and chefs would visit Toyosu Market to source the ingredients. The chefs wields their razor-sharp knives with confidence across the counter, slicing through ruby-red tuna, conger eel and squid, which are treated to Edomae techniques of aging, simmering and marinating. One of the store’s signature move is its aburi (seared) sushi, seared to order, with the technique adjusted according to the fish type. Pristine cuts like red seabream, blackthroat seaperch, and medium-fatty tuna are delicately burned over an open flame, reducing excess fat while amplifying the natural flavors. Soy sauce is unnecessary; the nigiri is lacquered with Bolivian rock salt and a hint of lemon to elevate its purity. These fish — known as neta (sushi toppings) — are then pressed atop Yamagata-grown Hitomebore rice seasoned with a 5-year-old Kagura vinegar, a temperamental blend that draws out the umami of the grains. Long-time patrons mingle with newcomers. This is an unshakable anchor of Edo.