Hokkaido Chimney Ginza

It's been a while since anyone in Tokyo has made a reminder about any sort of reputation that Hokkaido has for producing great food. Hokkaido Chimney Ginza, with its open-kitchen counter and a dressing that feels as cozy as it is cormopolitan, is putting Japan’s northernmost prefecture back on the map. Part of the venue’s charm is its immediate, dress-to-impress veneer. Colossal red king crabs lounge inside the giant water tanks, hugged by the polished wood counter, while gleaming bottles of whiskey from Yoichi Distillery and Hokkaido-brewed sake line the cabinet. It helps that the restaurant is backed by a charming, hospitable team that guides you to the moody-lit private rooms or dining space. Naturally, the restaurant stands at a sort of crossroads between Hokkaido and Tokyo, so its food is all proper talent show of what the prefecture’s finest offerings from its snow-capped mountains, lush pastures and icy waters. Uni and scallops arrive fresh from the fish market, while kinki fish (channel rockfish) is grilled by chefs in pristine white kappogi uniforms. As for the red king crab in the tank? It’s transformed into creamy croquettes or grilled right before your eyes. The expense of ingredients is thrown into even greater relief by the fact they get proper treatment. Intricate hors d’ouvre and seasonal carpaccio get the ball rolling, while the signature kamameshi — a traditional Nanatsuboshi rice from Hokkaido cooked in an iron pot — takes 30 minutes to reach perfect plumpness. Poroshiri wagyu from Hokkaido is either stewed or seared to perfection as steak. Another winner is the decadent rice bowl, capped with salmon roe, sea urchin or crabs. The wine list features a selection of Hokkaido natives, crafted from grapes grown in the region's vineyards, alongside a well-curated collection of Nikka Whiskey and local sake.