Aoyama Gyusai

Lavishly cool and laid-back, with a prime menu that gets right to the point — this is how Aoyama Gyusai, the impressive teppanyaki spot tucked just off Aoyama-Dori, rolls. It’s all thanks to the eloquent aptitude of the restaurant’s head chef, who has a knack for turning ingredients into their most exquisite form. Taking memos from French techniques that he learned over 30 years, his grilling performance behind the beaming iron counter is both dramatic and utilitarian, turning live teppanyaki grilling into something of a splendor. Thick, butter-tender kuroge wagyu is expertly flipped and seared to achieve the perfect tenderness while adding a touch of flair; foie gras is flambeed with impeccable timing; and abalone is sauteed live and finished with escargot butter. The hands-down winner is the Hitachi beef, raised in northern Ibaraki Prefecture from the same Tajima cow breed used for high-end Kobe beef. This region, known for its warm climate and grain-rich pastures, produces cattle that are raised without stress, resulting in firm fat and richly umami-packed meat. Following selections of kuroge wagyu are rounds of fresh seafood of abalone and “kuruma” tiger prawns from Misaki Port, doused with seasonal house-made sauces that are formulated each month in different ways. Even the vegetables are well-curated and sourced from all over Japan. As delicious as the food at Aoyama Gyusai is, it’s also about the more polished proposition of teppanyaki. The staff runs the fashionably appointed space in a sunny manner. Attractively lit private rooms are arranged around the teppanyaki counter. The noise from the outside doesn’t penetrate, but there is the multi-sensory explosion and wafts of appraisal within to contend with. The play between great food, warm service and spectacular venue is spot on.