Iinoji

Like a hearth against a winter's chill, the warm glow of Iinoji stands out in the dark evening. Partly surrounded by a lush tapestry of greeneries on the first floor of Nihonbashi’s Coredo Muromachi Terrace, Iinoji lures diners with the soothing narrative of sukiyaki, Japan’s beloved hotpot dish, and a sense of localized hospitality. Sukiyaki is the star, but diners selecting the course will experience a thoughtfully composed progression of kaiseki. The menu reads like one, too. Instead of diving straight into the signature metal tureen, where the sweet broth bubbles up to greet floating slices of beef and vegetables, appetizers and side dishes take the lead. Splendidly seasonal tempura platters and katsuo tataki — raw bonito fish gently seared on the outside — serve as a delightful introduction. But once the sukiyaki arrives, it takes center stage. Known for using the elusive Omi beef from Shiga Prefecture, the restaurant elevates this classic dish to new heights. The pot is heated for a few minutes, allowing the fat from the marbled beef to melt into the broth, imbuing it with an extra layer of umami. Once the pot is bubbling, the meat is best enjoyed when it is still shy of red. Drink selections are no less curated. The alcohol library stretches to 43 types, including 14 domestic sake brands such as Junmai Daiginjo. With a visibly relaxed approach to dining, Iinoji adheres to a timeless formula. Its interior, for instance, follows a traditional brief with shoji screens, warm wooden beams and a three-way counter. The intimate social interactions fostered through semi-private tables or the solitary comfort at the counter strike a balance between familiarity and novelty.