Koizumi

At a glance, Koizumi's concept is hard to pin down: contemporary, French, Japanese, traditional, sushi. Even the space brims with casual cheerfulness. There is a carp-drawn noren curtain, knickknacks and a simple chestnut counter. Ebony tables are on cozy terms with stacks of clean plates and rows of natural wine bottles. The furniture is mostly DIY-ed by the owner himself. Situated in Ebisu, Koizumi offers a menu liberally sprinkled with French cooking and a charmingly modern outlook on Japanese cuisine. Its eclectic personality echoes the owner's vast, varied resume. Starting at Gion’s Yonemura, a French-Japanese fusion destination, the chef journeyed through Brittany and across France to learn various trades: cheese making, fishing, bakery work, and agriculture. Returning to Kyoto was a deliberate move to learn the art of wagyu. Koizumi enlivens its offerings by letting originality take the lead. Dishes feature seasonal ingredients and plenty of dashi, staying true to Japanese roots but with French inflictions. For example, katsuobushi (dried bonito) broth is used to make a sauce with cheese and yuzu. In winter, signature dishes lean toward soft roe-based creations. Seasonal seafood, like oysters, and wagyu are featured prominently. The closing dish may seem spontaneous, but it’s always carefully calculated, ranging from sushi to risotto or pasta, depending on the season. Situated in one of Tokyo’s most competitive food hubs, expectations for Koizumi were high, and so far, they’re being met with ease. The food feels like it belongs in a gourmet magazine, yet a glance around the space makes one feel like they’ve stepped into the owner’s living room, awaiting his warm invitation: “Welcome home.”