Matsuki

The 100-year-old, two-story townhouse, framed by wooden latticework and lodged in Naramachi, has had many custodians over its lifetime. Once a private residence, it went through a renovation in 2017 by Fujioka Architectural Laboratory and transformed into the kaiseki-focused, Michelin-listed Matsuki known today. In the evening, the storefront is illuminated with warm glow; within is a space that retains its former traditional soul: smooth-polished tables are arranged around compartmentalized rooms divided by sliding doors, and calligraphic scrolls adorn the alcoves. Chef Matsumuro Katsuya, drawing from his training and birthplace in Osaka, cultivates the Naniwa taste — an Osaka approach of adjusting flavors to suit guests' preferences — rather than relying on the more subdued flavors of a conventional multicourse meal. He incorporates plenty of Yamato vegetables grown in the restaurant garden and ultra-local seasonal ingredients into the menu. In spring, the hassun platter features delicacies such as white shrimp, firefly squid and cod sprouts. The clear soup carries the aroma of kelp and freshly shaved bonito. Homemade chili vinegar and soy sauce accompany delicately prepared sashimi, while more straightforward Nara specialties, like sesame tofu and sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves, complete the offering. Yamato beef turns into sukiyaki; yellowtail to teriyaki and soft-shelled turtle to a petite hotpot. The aesthetic of the small mamezara plates and crockery reflects both the season and Matsumuro’s virtuosity for the dainty. His wife, Kaori, warmly welcomes and bids farewell to guests with a genuine smile. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - 1 Michelin Star