Koikiryori Aji Manso

Koikiryori Aji Manso is a thesis on how some restaurants don’t just stand against the test of time, but thrive with it. The house is led by Nagata Koji, who crafted an impressive culinary resume that propelled him across Japan — from a Japanese restaurant in Ginza to the geisha-filled streets of Gion, and the vibrant cities of Kobe and Osaka. In 1984, he returned to his birthplace and opened his own restaurant. The secret to Nagata's decades-old success lies in his relentless quest for inspiration. He receives insights from fellow chefs to build a gold-standard kappo menu that aligns with the seasons. His suppliers vary with the time of year: conger eel is sourced from the Seto Inland Sea in early summer and Ehime in fall, while wild-caught, adult sweetfish from Soni Village in Naha Prefecture is harvested during both seasons. In autumn, sea bream and mackerel are transformed into sushi masterpieces, with shari rice seasoned with delicate, mild vinegar. For such a legendary spot, Nagata extends the same warmth to newcomers as he does to his loyal regulars. He makes adjustments to his omakase with diners’ preferences in mind: nibbles of bar snacks for drinkers, and hearty dishes for those swinging by for supper. Almost half a century of history sees generations of patrons come through its doors — fathers bringing their sons, and grandfathers with grandsons. It’s a historic institution that does not need to hide behind its Michelin veil. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - 1 Michelin Star