Matsuzushi

When Yohei Tanigawa became the second owner of Matsuzushi, he not only inherited a legacy from his sushi-master predecessor but also a restaurant with a history spanning half a century in Osaka. It’s a big mantle to carry, but it was through his guidance that this Edo-style sushi spot earned its first Michelin star. Externally, not much has changed since Matsuzushi first opened its doors. Nestled between two shops in Kitabatake, Osaka, the space is warm and inviting with eight counter seats — but if you’ve made it this far for a reservation, you are not coming for the setting. While Tanigawa maintains elements of the former owner’s style, he doesn’t shy away from his own renditions. He uses red vinegar for the sushi rice, creating a sweet and mellow umami flavor that complements the sushi toppings. The seasonal fish, sourced directly from Osaka Bay, ensures an ever-changing menu that features unique items such as white shrimp seasoned with konbu, risotto-style steamed shirako (milt) sushi, oyster chawanmushi, and brown sea snail sushi. Pair the omakase course with a cup — or perhaps a few (we're not counting) — of sake from their curated selection of 20 varieties, which includes Junmai sake from Shiga and Nara Prefectures.