Sosakukushinomise Rindo

Chef Ueda’s orbital move in 2008 from French cuisine to the humble, street-food staple kushikatsu was not a miscalculation. Positioned in the northern area of mountainous, sleepy Ikoma, Sosakukushinomise Rindo draws on his Gallic background and culinary stint in Nishinomiya to create one of the city’s most sophisticated deep-fried, breaded skewers. Guests sit on the counter-only seats and rely on Ueda’s creativity. His skewers are designed based on addition and subtraction: boned conger eel is served with pickled plum; skewered cod gets a brush of basil sauce; and golden-brown fried salmon gets crowned with buttery mashed potatoes and glossy salmon roe. And then there are some things that are obviously French, like the deep-fried risotto and croque monsieur. All come together in stunningly simple skewers deep-fried in a blend of white sesame oil. There are only two types of courses and the theme centers around omakase — whatever Ueda brings to the counter. The menu starts with a Western-style appetizer, such as mackerel mousse, namul, gazpacho and a medley of far and in-between. It’s not a French affair without a strong list of wines, either. It may seem all over the place, but Ueda manages to create a culinary cohesion worthy of his Michelin status. Michelin Guide accolades: 2022 - 2024: Bib Gourmand