Suganoya Ginza-dori (Daiwa Roynet Hotel)

Kumamoto’s reputation as a lush, fertile and mountainous region is owed almost entirely to the Aso region. Active volcanoes like Mount Aso not only give Kumamoto an abundance of natural geothermal springs, but also imbue the soils with minerals, giving rise to endless expanses of rolling green fields. Nestled within this pristine setting is the Suganoya farm, a sprawling near-3,000,000 square meters of lush land where horses roam freely. As Japan’s largest producer of horse meat, Suganoya has earned its reputation not only as a trusted supplier of premium, nutritious horse meat, but also for its commitment to hygiene. The farm’s processing facility is certified by the Safe Quality Food Institute, ensuring that visitors can safely enjoy basashi — raw horse meat, widely considered the quintessential local delicacy — with complete peace of mind. At the heart of Suganoya’s philosophy is a deep sense of gratitude, which drives its dedication to utilizing every part of the horse, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. This ethos translates to a diverse menu featuring a wide array of cuts, from the tender, marbled tri-tip to the rich, deep red loin, and the creamy white koune (meat from the mane area). Guests are encouraged to savor the distinct flavors of each cut, with the differences being especially apparent when enjoyed raw. Of course, basashi isn’t the only way to enjoy horse meat at Suganoya; it’s also traditionally prepared in hotpot and deep-fried dishes. These are all part of the restaurant’s extensive course menus, giving diners the chance to explore the many facets of horse meat and understand why it has remained a beloved ingredient in Kumamoto for generations. Being just south of Kumamoto Castle, the Suganoya outlet in the Daiwa Roynet Hotel Ginza Dori Premier — which picked up a Michelin Plate in the Michelin Guide Kumamoto 2018 — is a curious convergence of Kumamoto’s culinary, cultural and architectural history. The restaurant enjoys popularity among visitors from out-of-prefecture, particularly those coming from a tour of Kumamoto Castle, and looking to try some local specialties. But the competition is stiff; basashi is a well-loved local delicacy, and spaces at the restaurant’s counter, tables, and semi-private rooms must all be contended for with the locals. Reservations are highly recommended.